How Far Apart to Hang Hexagon Shelves, Open or Closed Back

Slightly, in one respect: a back panel gives a fixing something to sit against anywhere across its width, rather than only where the hangers are. In every other respect the difference is about looks and weight rather than difficulty.

What actually decides how far apart to hang hexagon shelves and how easy the job is has more to do with marking accurately than with what is behind the module.

The Houseland modules are open-backed, so the wall shows through — which is the biggest visual difference between the two types.

How far apart to hang hexagon shelves, open or closed

The spacing rule is the same either way: gaps smaller than the modules, and identical across the group.

For hexagons around 9.8 to 13.8 in wide, a gap of roughly 2 to 4 in reads as a group. Wider and the shapes stop relating; tighter and they merge into a honeycomb block, which is a legitimate look but a different one.

Closed-back modules look slightly heavier because each one is a solid shape, so they benefit from being spaced at the wider end.

Open-backed modules show the wall through every opening, which lightens them — and lets them sit closer together without the group feeling dense.

What a back panel gives you

• Fixing freedom. A closed back can be screwed anywhere across its width, so a fixing can land on a stud even when the hanger positions do not.
• A hidden wall. Marks, patched paint or wallpaper you dislike disappear behind the module.
• A consistent backdrop. Every object sits against the same colour rather than against the wall.
• Slightly more rigidity, since the panel braces the frame.

Those are real advantages, and the fixing one matters most on a wall where the studs are awkward.

The Houseland modules take the open-backed route throughout, including the straight ledges, which keeps the whole set consistent: every opening in the group shows the same wall colour, so nothing looks like a patch of a different scheme.

What it costs

The weight row compounds: a heavier module eats into what the fixings can carry before a single object goes on it.

The depth row is the one people notice without being able to name it. An open module has a shadow behind whatever is in it, and that shadow is what gives a shallow shelf visual depth.

From the shop

Black Wall Shelves, 9-Piece Matte Black Pine Hexagon and Ledge Set

A 9-piece matte black set over pine: six hexagons, two each at 13.8, 11.8 and 9.8 in wide, and three straight ledges of 19.7 in, open modules with no back panel. 3.5 in deep with 0.6 in board, keyhole hangers, up to 5 kg (11 lb) per piece.

View the 9-piece matte black hexagon set — dimensions & current price

Hanging accuracy is the real variable

Neither type is hard to hang; both are easy to hang crooked.

1. Mark from a masking-tape transfer taken off the module rather than measuring twice.
2. Mark the top of each keyhole slot, not the round opening.
3. Set every module against one drawn line rather than against its neighbour.
4. Check the level with the module hanging, since hangers have play.
5. Check again the next day, once the anchors have settled.

That sequence is identical for open and closed backs, and it is what determines whether a group looks fitted — marking keyhole slots covers it in full.

Where open backs are clearly better

On a coloured or papered wall. The wall becomes part of the display, which is most of the reason to have painted it.

On a small wall, where solid modules would read as heavy.

Where the shapes are the point. An open hexagon reads as a line drawing; a closed one reads as a box.

For lighter fixings. Less weight in the module means more of the rating is available for what you put in it.

The wall-as-backdrop effect is worth planning for rather than accepting — the colour behind changes how every object reads, as covered in choosing shelves for a coloured wall.

An open back also makes a group easier to live with over time. Repainting a wall behind closed modules means taking every piece down and cutting in around nothing; behind open ones the wall is already visible and a roller reaches most of it with the modules in place. Small, but it comes round every few years.

Where closed backs win

On a wall you want to hide. Old paint, a bad patch, textured paper.

Where small objects might fall through — less of an issue on a hexagon with a flat base than on an open frame.

Where a fixing has to hit a stud that does not line up with the hangers.

In a child's room, where a solid back means fewer gaps for things to be pushed through.

If two or more of those apply, the extra weight is worth it.

There is a safety angle worth naming as well. In a room with a cot or a toddler bed, an open module at low level gives small hands something to reach through and grip, and a solid back removes that. It is not a reason to avoid open shelves generally — hanging them higher solves the same problem — but where the wall position is fixed and low, a closed back is the sensible choice.

Mixing the two

It can work, but only deliberately. A group of open modules with one closed one reads as a mistake unless the closed one is doing an obvious job — holding something that needs a backdrop, or covering a mark on the wall.

If mixing, keep the finish identical and the spacing consistent, and use at least two of each type so the mix reads as a scheme.

The safer version is to group them: open modules on one part of the wall, closed on another, with a clear break between.

Most people are better off picking one and being consistent, since the difference is subtle enough that a mix reads as inconsistency rather than as variety.

Depth is the other thing to check before mixing types from different sellers. Two modules that are both nominally shallow but differ by half an inch will never line up at the front, and that mismatch is far more visible than the difference between an open and a closed back.

What I would do

Open backs, on a wall colour I actually like. The shadow inside each module is what makes a shallow shelf look considered, and the lighter weight leaves more of the fixing rating for the objects.

Closed backs on a wall I want to hide, or where a stud has to be hit and the hanger positions will not reach it.

Either way, spend the effort on marking rather than on the choice. A well-hung group of the wrong type looks better than a badly hung group of the right one.

If the wall behind is genuinely poor and repainting is not an option, there is a middle route: hang open modules and put something with a solid face inside one or two of them — a leaning print, a flat box — which covers the worst patch without committing the whole group to closed backs.